Perhaps no industry depends more on unsustainable and environmentally hazardous chemicals than the clothing trade. Growing cotton consumes vast quantities of chemical fertilisers, herbicides and pesticides. Synthetic textiles such as polyester come from petrochemicals.

Dyeing both synthetic and natural fibres requires an intense chemical cocktail: giving denim jeans their typical indigo colour, for example, requires use of large quantities of sodium hydrosulphite, an environmentally antagonistic chemical that can corrode cement and damage sewage pipes. That cocktail is chased down by millions of litres of rinse water at factories that are often located in areas of the world, such as parts of India, where water is already scarce.

With such problems in mind, NatureWorks is investigating the use of its corn-based Ingeo polymer to make fibres that can be woven into a textile. Unfortunately, the end product has a tendency to melt when ironed, and it is also several times the price of polyester. The Italian fashion house Gattinoni has used it to make a “bio” wedding dress, but it appears to be a long way from regular commercial production. A polymer called Sorona, made by US chemical giant DuPont, also uses corn as the source for part of its raw material - though more than 60 per cent is still derived from petroleum.

If the wooden look is more your style, bamboo, beech and eucalyptus are renewably sourced textile fibres. Bamboo can grow nearly anywhere without pesticides or herbicides, and has already been used in T-shirts, ski boots and a variety of other clothing items. In one respect, however, it is no green dream: it cannot be broken down into fibres for clothing without the use of hazardous chemicals such as sodium hydroxide and carbon disulphide.

A better bet might be Tencel, a wood-derived, viscose-like fabric made by the Austria-based manufacturer Lenzing in a process that uses a less corrosive solvent, N-methylmopholine oxide, than normal viscose production and recycles 99.6 per cent of it each time, dramatically reducing waste. Tencel has been used for items as diverse as chefs’ outfits and surgical garments, but it is several times the price of viscose. Truly green and affordable clothes are a way off yet.

Source: New Scientist Magazine, Sarah Everts. 

While consumers are more likely to “go green” on the high street where they can be seen making altruistic choices, the privacy of online shopping brings out an entirely different behaviour.

When people are not being watched by their peers they are more willing to shun the ethical products in favour of comfort and convenience, the report says.

The habit has been studied by Vladas Griskevicius, of the University of Minnesota’s Carlson School of Management, who found eco-friendly shopping decisions are not always motivated by a social conscious.

He discovered that people were more likely to buy energy efficient light bulbs from the shops, but tended to opt for the old-fashioned type online.

The same trend was also found when people purchased white goods, electronics and even domestic cleaning products over the internet.

“Many green purchases are rooted in the evolutionary idea of competitive altruism, the notion that people compete for status by trying to appear more altruistic,” he said.

In the paper “Going Green to Be Seen: Status, Reputation, and Conspicuous Conservation”, published in the Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, the authors found that people would only forego luxury when others could see it.

Mr Griskevicius picks out the Toyota Prius car as a prime example. Celebrities including Leonardo DiCaprio and Cameron Diaz have been photographed behind the wheel of a Prius, despite being well able to afford a more powerful and expensive car, sending the message that they are concerned for the environment.

“A reputation for being a caring individual gives you status and prestige. When you publicly display your environmentally friendly nature, you send the signal that you care,” said the report.

The study also showed that people were often more willing to buy green products when they were the most expensive option, because it showed they could afford to be caring.

An example is paying for canvas tote bags to take to the supermarket, rather than relying on the free but environmentally dubious plastic variety.

“People want to be seen as being altruistic. Nothing communicates that better than by buying green products that often cost more and are of lower quality but benefit the environment for everyone,” Mr Griskevicius said.

* The green choice: high street vs online

While shoppers are more likely to buy environmentally friendly products on the high street where they can be seen to make the selfless choice, but behind closed doors it is a different matter.

Groceries – In the supermarket shoppers may be drawn to organic vegetables that are grown without chemical pesticides and are considered better for the environment. However, doing an online shop the cheaper option may seem more attractive.

Nappies – Some mothers feel under pressure to buy cloth nappies for their babies rather than contribute to landfill sites with the disposable kind. However, over the internet they may be tempted to stick with convenience.

Televisions – When buying televisions online shoppers tend to opt for the best bargain. However, when faced with energy efficiency labels in store, they may be persuaded to go for the greener option.

Source: The Telegraph, 17th March 2010

Students who want to know more about working conditions in garment manufacture have the chance to learn more during the Placement Training hosted by Fashioning an Ethical Industry.  The training gives all the ins and outs on ethical issues whether it concerns a placement at a high-street chain or small company.  Through the training, students will gain a deeper understanding of issues faced by garment workers and efforts being made to improve conditions.  The training is taking place on 28th April in London and is open to any students.Fashioning an Ethical Industry is a Labour Behind the Label project that works with students and tutors on fashion related courses.  To find out more visit http://fashioninganethicalindustry.org/home/ 

Emesha is a sporty-luxe label created for young women, who are conscious about the environment and look for wearable luxury smart casuals made of eco-friendly materials.  Emesha is fully committed to environmental and social responsibilities.  The label was created using only green/eco-friendly materials and the production is organised to help a depriving fashion expert community in Hungary to survive the difficult economic and social changes.Emesha was recently launched at Fashion Fusion Expo, Trumen Brewery in London.  To view the s/s 10 collection visit www.emesha.com